Angkor Wat by bicycle: a solo adventure off the beaten path

Angkor Temples by Bike – Fans of video games or Angelina Jolie might know this place in Cambodia without even realizing it. In fact, one of the temples was featured in Tomb Raider, and some scenes from an Indiana Jones movie were filmed here too.

In this article, I’ll share a different way to visit Angkor—one that not many people choose. Thanks to this unique approach, I met a wonderful person and came to appreciate the temples even more.

I visited in July 2015, during a solo trip that started in Thailand, traveling in a backpacker style—just the way I love it.

Angkor Temples by Bike – all photos credit to: Fabio Viroli

Angkor: The Best of Cambodia

Angkor is the world’s largest religious complex, with hundreds of buildings, many still in good condition, spread across a massive area. Some believe it was the most populated city in the pre-industrial world, with over a million inhabitants. It’s the most visited site in Cambodia and one of the top destinations in all of Asia.

These ruins are the legacy of the ancient Khmer Empire, which thrived in Southeast Asia from the 9th to the 15th century. But beyond the historical records, there’s something magical about the place. After the fall of the Khmer Kingdom, the temples were abandoned and slowly swallowed by the jungle. For centuries, nature reclaimed the area, hiding its secrets.

It wasn’t until the late 19th century that Angkor was rediscovered, and yet the forest still seems to embrace it. What struck me the most was this blend of powerful man-made structures and wild nature. Trees grow through walls, roots wrap around stone—it’s like history and nature are in constant dialogue.

The most unforgettable temples are the iconic Angkor Wat, reflected beautifully in the pools before it, and Bayon, where countless serene faces are carved into stone towers. It’s stunning, but also a little eerie—you feel like you’re being watched from every angle.

In contrast, Siem Reap—the town that serves as a base for visiting the site—is vibrant and lively, full of hostels, bars, and restaurants. It’s about 12 km from the temples, so most people arrange some form of transport.

How most people visit

Most travel bloggers recommend visiting at sunrise and sunset, usually by booking a tuk tuk or joining a tour. But I’m convinced I made the best choice—one that very few others made at the time: I explored Angkor completely on my own and by bicycle.

The downside of beautiful places is that everyone wants to see them. Personally, I can’t stand crowds. I didn’t want to spend two or three days being shuffled along in a group. Of course, there are still people around the major temples, but if you go independently, you can set your own pace and enjoy the peaceful surroundings between the sites.

And honestly, when I do find myself surrounded by photographers and selfie-takers, I try to sneak into the background of their pictures making silly faces. A little personal entertainment!

Tuk Tuks and my alternative

Tuk tuks deserve their own paragraph. If you’ve never been to Asia—or even South America—they’re small, three-wheeled vehicles adapted to carry people. They’re called “tuk tuks” because of the sound of their engines and are known for their colorful decorations and often wild driving style.

In tourist areas, tuk tuk drivers can be… enthusiastic. It’s nearly impossible to walk without being approached by someone trying to offer you a ride. The first few times, I thought something had happened, or maybe they mistook me for someone they knew. But no—they just couldn’t understand why someone would choose to walk.

How I visited: slowly, and by bke

When I asked about renting a bicycle, people tried to talk me out of it—probably because tuk tuk drivers rely on tourist fares. But I wanted to be free. I didn’t want someone waiting for me while I explored or pushing me to hurry. Plus, I liked the idea of blending into the forest’s quiet rhythm. The bike they gave me was old and a bit beat-up—perfect.

I didn’t see many other cyclists, except for one—a girl from Paris who made the whole experience even more memorable. I was taking a break in the shade, catching my breath (the heat and humidity were intense), when she asked me for directions. I was a bit speechless—she was stunning.

After gathering some courage, I decided to catch up with her at the next temple stop. But when I got there, I realized I had lost my camera. I retraced my steps, found it, and caught back up with her again.

She turned out to be really funny and kind. We laughed between temples, sharing beers at the end of dusty roads. She joked that we looked completely unpresentable, and I imagined her back in Paris, maybe a lawyer in a sharp suit—while here she was, dusty and sweaty, laughing at my bad jokes. That’s the beauty of traveling solo, especially in Asia: it’s so easy to meet people on similar paths.

We spent the next day together, though we did have a close call. Among the ruins are groups of monkeys, and we got too close to one with a baby. The mother felt threatened and charged us, screeching. Even though they’re small, monkeys can be dangerous—scratches and bites can lead to serious infections. Luckily, she backed off and we continued exploring one of the most incredible places on Earth.

Angkor Temples by Bike – all photos credit to: Fabio Viroli

About Me

My name is Fabio Viroli. I run a blog where I write about my travel adventures, the people I meet, and the unique experiences I find along the way—often at a slower pace.
📍 www.strangethingstraveling.com

Angkor Temples by Bike – all photos credit to: Fabio Viroli

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