Angkor Wat by bicycle: a solo adventure off the beaten path
Angkor Temples by Bike ā Fans of video games or Angelina Jolie might know this place in Cambodia without even realizing it. In fact, one of the temples was featured in Tomb Raider, and some scenes from an Indiana Jones movie were filmed here too.
In this article, Iāll share a different way to visit Angkorāone that not many people choose. Thanks to this unique approach, I met a wonderful person and came to appreciate the temples even more.
I visited in July 2015, during a solo trip that started in Thailand, traveling in a backpacker styleājust the way I love it.
Angkor Temples by Bike ā all photos credit to: Fabio Viroli
Angkor: The Best of Cambodia
Angkor is the worldās largest religious complex, with hundreds of buildings, many still in good condition, spread across a massive area. Some believe it was the most populated city in the pre-industrial world, with over a million inhabitants. Itās the most visited site in Cambodia and one of the top destinations in all of Asia.
These ruins are the legacy of the ancient Khmer Empire, which thrived in Southeast Asia from the 9th to the 15th century. But beyond the historical records, thereās something magical about the place. After the fall of the Khmer Kingdom, the temples were abandoned and slowly swallowed by the jungle. For centuries, nature reclaimed the area, hiding its secrets.
It wasnāt until the late 19th century that Angkor was rediscovered, and yet the forest still seems to embrace it. What struck me the most was this blend of powerful man-made structures and wild nature. Trees grow through walls, roots wrap around stoneāitās like history and nature are in constant dialogue.
The most unforgettable temples are the iconic Angkor Wat, reflected beautifully in the pools before it, and Bayon, where countless serene faces are carved into stone towers. Itās stunning, but also a little eerieāyou feel like youāre being watched from every angle.
In contrast, Siem Reapāthe town that serves as a base for visiting the siteāis vibrant and lively, full of hostels, bars, and restaurants. Itās about 12 km from the temples, so most people arrange some form of transport.
How most people visit
Most travel bloggers recommend visiting at sunrise and sunset, usually by booking a tuk tuk or joining a tour. But Iām convinced I made the best choiceāone that very few others made at the time: I explored Angkor completely on my own and by bicycle.
The downside of beautiful places is that everyone wants to see them. Personally, I canāt stand crowds. I didnāt want to spend two or three days being shuffled along in a group. Of course, there are still people around the major temples, but if you go independently, you can set your own pace and enjoy the peaceful surroundings between the sites.
And honestly, when I do find myself surrounded by photographers and selfie-takers, I try to sneak into the background of their pictures making silly faces. A little personal entertainment!
Tuk Tuks and my alternative
Tuk tuks deserve their own paragraph. If youāve never been to Asiaāor even South Americaātheyāre small, three-wheeled vehicles adapted to carry people. Theyāre called ātuk tuksā because of the sound of their engines and are known for their colorful decorations and often wild driving style.
In tourist areas, tuk tuk drivers can beā¦ enthusiastic. Itās nearly impossible to walk without being approached by someone trying to offer you a ride. The first few times, I thought something had happened, or maybe they mistook me for someone they knew. But noāthey just couldnāt understand why someone would choose to walk.
How I visited: slowly, and by bke
When I asked about renting a bicycle, people tried to talk me out of itāprobably because tuk tuk drivers rely on tourist fares. But I wanted to be free. I didnāt want someone waiting for me while I explored or pushing me to hurry. Plus, I liked the idea of blending into the forestās quiet rhythm. The bike they gave me was old and a bit beat-upāperfect.
I didnāt see many other cyclists, except for oneāa girl from Paris who made the whole experience even more memorable. I was taking a break in the shade, catching my breath (the heat and humidity were intense), when she asked me for directions. I was a bit speechlessāshe was stunning.
After gathering some courage, I decided to catch up with her at the next temple stop. But when I got there, I realized I had lost my camera. I retraced my steps, found it, and caught back up with her again.
She turned out to be really funny and kind. We laughed between temples, sharing beers at the end of dusty roads. She joked that we looked completely unpresentable, and I imagined her back in Paris, maybe a lawyer in a sharp suitāwhile here she was, dusty and sweaty, laughing at my bad jokes. Thatās the beauty of traveling solo, especially in Asia: itās so easy to meet people on similar paths.
We spent the next day together, though we did have a close call. Among the ruins are groups of monkeys, and we got too close to one with a baby. The mother felt threatened and charged us, screeching. Even though theyāre small, monkeys can be dangerousāscratches and bites can lead to serious infections. Luckily, she backed off and we continued exploring one of the most incredible places on Earth.
Angkor Temples by Bike ā all photos credit to: Fabio Viroli
About Me
My name is Fabio Viroli. I run a blog where I write about my travel adventures, the people I meet, and the unique experiences I find along the wayāoften at a slower pace.
š www.strangethingstraveling.com
Angkor Temples by Bike ā all photos credit to: Fabio Viroli
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